Mouth-watering kebabs, fragrant biryani, and whipped, ethereal desserts.
The metropolis in India's north of Lucknow has long been a dream destination for epicures, with residents and tourists alike celebrating its remarkable cuisine.
Worldwide Recognition
Last month, Unesco honored it as a City of Gastronomy within its Creative Cities Network – including it in a select roster of global cities and igniting hopes that it will highlight Lucknow's peerless food. With this status, it enters a international community of over 400 metropolises across more than 100 countries committed to promoting "creativity as a catalyst of city development that is sustainable".
The accolade "stands as proof of its deep-rooted food heritage and vibrant culinary scene," as noted by a spokesperson from UNESCO's Regional Office for South Asia.
Lucknow is just the second Indian city – following Hyderabad, which was selected in 2019 – to earn a spot in this coveted list of seventy urban centers around the world.
A Metropolis Shaped by Cuisine
The honor for this venerable city is little surprise to its inhabitants or passionate food lovers. Many agree with the opinion that it is "a recognition that was delayed".
With the UNESCO recognition, this beloved, bustling, and eclectic city – the capital of India's largest state – is finally in the limelight for what has consistently characterized its essence: an immense passion for food.
"'What's for dinner, how should it be prepared' is a ongoing conversation from waking up until going to bed in most homes," notes a local cultural expert. "And you are often evaluated by the standard of food that is produced in your kitchen."
A Royal Culinary Legacy
The City of the Nawabs – as it's often referred to after its historic wealthy Muslim rulers – is famed for its tender kebabs and a distinctive take on biryani that were created, evolved, and raised to sublime levels in their opulent kitchens.
These kitchens of the nobility were hubs of food experimentation, merging Iranian and native Indian styles to create what became known as the cuisine of Awadh.
It was during this time that Lucknow's most famous kebabs were developed. As the tale is told that the mutton galouti was created to cater to an ageing nawab who had lost his teeth. His chefs processed the meat with raw papaya, saffron, and spices and made it so fine that it needed no chewing.
But perhaps the greatest contribution of the chefs of Awadh was the slow-cooking Dum pukht technique, where food is prepared on a low, slow heat, with the pot's lid tightly closed with dough.
A Diverse Culinary Landscape
In addition to the obvious kebabs and biryani, the culinary masters also developed a vast array of dishes that included kormas (rich curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a decadent bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is far more than kebabs and biryani – the region is also a vegetarian's paradise.
The local traditionally vegetarian community's cuisine doesn't just highlights fresh harvests but also offers the city its exquisitely crafted Indian desserts, sweets, and unique street food, like chaat – zesty fried snacks.
Iconic Stalls and Historic Shops
Virtually on countless corners, there are tiny kiosks and stalls – hidden delights that are immensely popular with the locals.
In the heart of the city of Hazratganj, huge crowds start assembling from early morning at a renowned tea stall to get a piping hot cup of milky masala chai, presented in clay glasses, along with fluffy buns lathered with hand-churned white butter.
To start the day, one can visit a no-frills joint operating in the old city area of Aminabad. Nearly 150 years after it was established, the place is still much sought-after for its hot kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Ensuring Legacy Continues
The city also offers unique treats of the season, such as makkhan malai, a airy dessert available in the winter. The technique of making it is intricate and involved. The cook whisks the milk and then leaves it out at night, allowing the dew to give it its amazing light consistency.
On cold mornings, street vendors are often seen in historic neighborhoods like Aminabad and Chowk. Some however express concern that their younger generation do not want to master the art.
A celebrity chef from Lucknow has noted that the city's profound food legacy places it at the very pinnacle of the Indian street food experience. The real value from the UNESCO recognition, however, will materialize only if Lucknow can now create awareness about its under-the-radar eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow tells a story – crafted by generational food businesses, from modest street carts to bustling restaurants, and guarded family recipes.
The worldwide honor, it is believed, will inspire more people worldwide to explore these tales and experience the city to taste the culinary delights of Lucknow.
